"Sleeping Beauties" - Australia's best places to stay
David Matheson
Published by Penguin 2004

Page 92
Bali Hai


Twenty minutes drive north of Port Douglas in far North Queensland, Bali Hai is nestled in a clearing of lush green lawns amid the ancient Daintree rainforest; the nearest neighbours are a couple of kilometres away.

This tropical hideaway can accommodate up to six guests, and was designed by Chris van Dyke, a specialist in tropical architecture. Chris has won environmental awards for his use of timber in homes - a talent exploited to the full at Bali Hai, where the rich hues of dark wood contrast with the whitewashed walls and the stone and marble floors that are blissfully soothing underfoot. Fans gently whir overhead in the raked ceilings, while sliding doors admit daytime breezes or the cool night air laden with rainforest dew.

With a distinctly Asian aesthetic, there are four separate pavilions thatched with ylang ylang fronds specially imported from Bali. The main, open plan bungalow houses the main living and kitchen areas. Owners Hans and Wendy van der Wolf supply basic provisions, including olive oil, balsamic vinegar, sea salt, samples of Daintree tea and coffee, and a huge bowl of seasonal fruit - and the nearest shop is five minutes away, should you need to augment your supplies.

Guests are also encouraged to help themselves to produce from the extensive gardens, where vegetables, lemongrass, coriander and other herbs thrive in the rich tropical earth. Then there are fruit trees, including four varieties of lime, paw paws, mangoes, jackfruit, mulberries, mangosteens, and passionfruit. Ready to help you transform this abundance of ingredients into leisurely meals is the ultimate gourmet kitchen, boasting everything from a pestle and mortar to a commercial grade oven and dishwasher and an icemaking refrigerator. A state-of-the-art Bose sound system is installed throughout.

The elements of wood and water are things repeated throughout the property, which has as its centrepiece a huge wet-edge pool that appears to end in the rainforest itself. Wendy and Hans travelled to Java to buy most of the exquisitely crafted wooden artefacts at Bali Hai, including a hand-carved day bed, hammocks and field ploughs that act as sun lounges. The water theme continues with the blissful Taiwanese-style bathrooms with plunge baths strategically placed so guests can take in views of the forest-clad hills while soaking.

In the grounds, tropical flowers have been planted to attract colourful butterflies and provide the dramatic displays of fresh flowers throughout Bali Hai. Vases filled with the extravagant blooms of heliconia, ginger, orchid and bird of paradise adorned the living areas, and bathrooms are scented with fragrant frangipani flowers.

If you want to get closer still to nature, there are secluded swimming holes along the river that flows through the property, lined with the river stones polished smoothed by the current. Bicycles are available for those who want to visit nearby Mossman Gorge, where a cool rainforest stream spills over huge granite boulders -a round-trip of an hour or two, depending on how long you linger.

While most people who stay at Bali Hai find no reason to leave this tropical paradise, beautiful Newell Beach is just 5 Minutes drive -and guests who do venture down to the beach have access to a catamaran, two wave skis and a windsurfer.